Resilience in the Holler: A Farmer/Chef’s Tale

Ed Winebarger, left, shows a repaired culvert to Richard Boylan, area specialized Extension agent in agriculture and natural resources. Winebarger stands on a newly built rock wall beneath a dam on his 7-acre farm.

WATAUGA COUNTY – Nestled among the rugged beauty of Watauga County near Boone, Ed Winebarger’s seven-acre organic farm isn’t just a piece of land — it’s a deeply rooted mission.

Through Earthworks Catering, his farm-to-table business, Winebarger grows heirloom produce that ends up on plates he personally prepares. But when Hurricane Helene dumped 28 inches of rain in September, it wasn’t just crops that were swept away — it was decades of hard-earned soil, infrastructure and hope.

“The water forcefully just sliced this place in half,” recalled the western North Carolina native known to his customers as Chef Winebarger. “I’ve spent probably close to $50,000 and maybe four or five hundred hours of time putting it back.”

The storm obliterated 70 shiitake mushroom logs, destroyed roads, and washed away topsoil he had nurtured over two decades. But amid the chaos, Cooperative Extension became a lifeline. Watauga County Extension Director Jim Hamilton and Area Small Farm Management Agent Richard Boylan were not just technical advisors – they became trusted companions in crisis.

“They’ve always been there for support through the hard times,” Winebarger said. “Sometimes, I just needed to talk to somebody because I was going through what I’ll call PTSD. They’ve always been able to lend a hand — and their knowledge.”

Extension staff connected Winebarger with the right resources, like USDA’s Farm Service Agency, and guided him through complex applications for funding and recovery assistance. But their greatest impact, he said, was their presence. They didn’t just offer advice; they showed up.

“Richard and Jim have seen my farm evolve over the years. If I have an issue with insects or disease, they help me find a remedy. If I don’t know how to apply for something, they walk me through it.”

Now, Winebarger is rebuilding smarter, with new culvert systems and regenerative farming practices supported by local organizations. He’s back to getting his hands into the soil, planting with intention and planning for long-term resilience, all while offering farm-to-table catering for weddings and other special events.

“I can’t wait for someone else to fix it. I’ve got to keep moving,” he said.
I’m not about to lay down and cry.”

For Winebarger, recovery means building a stronger foundation to survive what comes next, and fighting to get the funds – federal, state, and local – to pay for rebuilding and community resilience. Extension, he said, will continue to be a partner in those efforts.

“The extension people are also people who live in the community, and some of them have farms themselves,” he said. “They know you, and that makes a difference.”